Friday, February 20, 2015

"Spring Fling" ... Throwing Knife Fun

About 20 years ago I was very active in attending Buckskinning or "Mountain Man" reenactment events. These were gatherings where folks would dress like the Trapper's of the 1820's Rocky Mountain Fur Trade era, shoot muzzleloading rifles and muskets, throw tomahawks and knives, and generally just have great fun! I especially enjoyed knife throwing, and used a heavy Bowie style made from a truck spring.

My "Primitive" Thrower

A little history: I first became enthralled with knife throwing watching my Dad throw. He'd been a Paratrooper in WWII and learned the skill in the military. I remember him telling me how he had acquired an M1 carbine bayonet because of the dagger blade shape and balance, and how he felt it made a good combat/fighting knife. He'd worn it on his hip, opposite of his M1 Garand bayonet. Several times as a youngster, I had seen him pick up a knife, test the weight in his hand, and then make a "Cold Throw" and stick it.

Anyways, today the pre-Spring weather was so beautiful and I was feeling nostalgic, so I dropped into my favorite shop S.L.O. Camp `n Pack to see what they might have in the way of throwing knives.  They had a selection from inexpensive to high quality [expensive] throwers. I selected a set of  UNITED CUTLERY "Screaming Arrow" throwers.

I chose these because they have a blade edge measuring 3" in length, permissible under local ordinance for the park I wanted to throw at. Additionally I could find no references or language specifically prohibiting knife throwing in a park or open space. I should be lawful as long as I practiced safely, away from people, and not damaging any public property in the process.

After purchasing the throwing knife set, I drove out to the park and selected an isolated spot where I could be safe and easily see if anyone started to approach and create an unsafe situation. I brought along some small planks for targets; it would be unlawful and injurious to throw into a live tree. I braced my target against a dead tree, sadly killed by the Pine Blight that went through here several years ago.

The knives were lighter than I was used to, and it took awhile to get my throwing distance set, but once I did the little knives started sticking consistently...great fun!

Sticking it!
 
One thing about these knives was their light construction. The tips bent and this was easily remedied with a twist from the pliers on my multi-tool. But that's okay...these were designed to be thrown and used, not kept pristine.

Bent tips, easily straightened.

After I got home, a few raps with the hammer and a little work on my sharpening stones and the knives were ready for my next outing.

Straightened and re-sharpened
 
Technically, you don't really need to sharpen throwing knives, since the intent is to put them point-in to a target, but I like getting a "stick", even if it is under or over rotated, over a "miss".

There's so much to possibly learn about knife throwing, I could not hope to cover it all here. But I will cover a few tips I have found useful:

- Throwing knives come in all sizes. Some people like smaller ones, say 6, 8 , or 10 inches. Others like larger 12 to 16 inch blades. Just remember, the larger the heavier, so pick something you can comfortably fling...!

- Throwing distances will vary depending on the length of the knife and the technique of the person throwing it. The handle is a good indicator of range. If your knife hits the target with the handle up, move forward a few inches [too much rotation before hitting the target]. If the handle is down, back up a few inches [too little rotation].

Over-rotation, upper right knife

- Note your leading foot location and mark the spot, so you can place your foot in that same exact place every time you throw. I like whittling wooden stakes and driving them solidly into the ground to form a "gate" [see photo below].

"Throwing Gate"

- Don't "snap" your wrist when you throw your knife. I like to think "Fling"...just an easy "flip" of sorts. To my mind, it's like golf. If you try to "power hit" it rarely drives the ball as far as if you focused more on technique.

- Get in the habit of "flinging" it exactly the same way each and every time you throw. Be consistent on every aspect of your throwing...consistent stance, focus, grip, wind up, release and follow-through are hugely important.

- To get a smooth release, don't mentally think of releasing the knife...just relax your grip and allow it to slide out of your hand. Other wise you'll end up releasing too late [throwing into ground] or too early [throwing over target].

- A properly balanced knife will throw equally well from the handle or the blade. The balance point should be at or near the center of the knife. Generally, a knife that is handle heavy, throws better when gripped from the blade and a blade heavy knife throws better gripped by the handle.

- Targets:  For smaller knives you can practice on a box with layers of cardboard cut and packed into it. Heavy blades will stick well in soft wood planks, or log rounds. Unless extremely sharp, my experience is light knives won't stick bounce off these. Avoid hard wood rounds [Eucalyptus sucks!].

- Knives are pretty easy to lose if you throw outside in deep grass or leaves. I once lost a treasured one that was a Father's Day gift from my daughters and searched for HOURS until I found it buried in sand. Choose a location where they're not apt to become easily lost.

- Finally, CHECK LOCAL LAWS AND ORDINANCES BEFORE STARTING KNIFE THROWING ANYWHERE! In some jurisdictions [such as parks] weapons of any kind are prohibited.

Anyways, there's just a little bit of info on knife throwing. In conclusion, I have to say I personally do not see this as a practical skill either for combatives or hunting, but rather, just an outdoors sport based in some aspects of history. I see it more as a recreation, something to pass time at camp or for the "Seneca Run" at a Mountain Man Rondy.

Hope you all get outdoors and enjoy the Spring weather as it arrives!

GOBLIN RANGER/WOODS DEVIL

Friday, January 16, 2015

Kilimanjaro Gear Trail Hike

Dayhiking with KILIMANJARO GEAR 3-Way Modular Deployment Bag #910103 and BALLAST Multi-Tool #910053. Gathered some Hummingbird sage and made a woodsman's tea along the way. Check out my review of this great trail gear at GoblinRanger.blogspot.com and visit their website at Kilimanjarogear.com. 
 
Also, for an excellent Bug-Out Bag gear checklist, visit S.L.O. CAMP N' PACK
 
 

Monday, January 12, 2015

Dayhiking with the KILIMANJARO GEAR "BALLAST" multi-tool

So today after work, I went out to the park where I volunteer [ADOPT-A-PARK] to check the trails and collect litter. I decided to see if I could find a few tasks I could test the KILIMANJARO GEAR "BALLAST" (tm) multi-tool on. I spotted a fallen Oak branch and tried out the little saw blade on it. Worked pretty well. The saw blade is less than 2" in length, so you are pretty much relegated to branches no more than an inch or so:

Saw blade function worked well
 
After that I tried out the blade on whittling a point and no surprise there because it was sharp as delivered: 
 
Whittling with straight blade
 
It was a beautiful day outdoors. We'd just had some rain the night before and everything was fresh and green, like this Hummingbird Sage [love the tea from this]:
 
Hummingbird Sage makes a nice tea with
Decongestant medicinal properties 
 
I saw a lot of Dusky Footed WoodsRat dens scattered off the trails in the woods:
 
WoodsRat den
 
I wore the knife and sheath to work last night at my second job [stock clerk] pulling pallets and stocking shelves...lot of movement. I checked the sheath and just as I'd expected the flimsy web loop was already stretching. The stitching was starting to stretch as well:
 
Stiffer belt loop fabric needed
 
The sheath needs a thicker/stiffer piece of nylon, sewn flat against the backing...such that you can barely slide belt through. It'll stretch a little with time, but this is not going to last. You'd have to carry it in a pack to avoid losing it.
 
I found a downed green Willow branch so I used the straight blade and the serrated blade to craft a tent peg and a spindle for bow drill [when it's dried] and they worked just fine:

Camp craft whittling
 
I attempted to sharpen my pruners with the file blade, but the file is too soft and couldn't scratch the pruner's blade. In fact, the double-cut checkering started wearing away. I tried it as a wood rasp and it worked okay, so that's the most you can expect from the file function. That was a disappointment:
 
File will function as a wood rasp

I also tried the Phillips Head screwdriver out. I tried screwing a wood screw into some Douglas Fir 1 X 3. This is one of those "Half Phillips" in which the cross tips are ground short so it doesn't require as much space in the handle [and thus a slimmer handle profile]. These are stinkers because they slip out of the Phillips slot, but worse, the Phillips blade kept collapsing under pressure because it does not lock. So, I gotta say, there's room for improvement here. But KILIMANJARO GEAR does offer a Lifetime Warranty [original purchaser/no abuse] and that's not bad! 

Anyways, it was a good outing. Oh, and I managed to gather up about a pound of litter from the park and trails. Last time I added it up a couple of months ago I figured I'd gathered over 50# of litter:

Take some litter out with you. Leave the
Trail better than you found it! 
 
I've got some more testing to do on this multi-tool, so we shall see. It's an attractive design and I really like it, but there's a few things as mentioned that I'd fine-tune to make it an even better product.
 
Have a great week!

 WOODS DEVIL / GOBLIN RANGER

Sunday, January 11, 2015

Kilimanjaro Gear...A new trail gear company!

One of the people whom I enjoy following on FACEBOOK is Joel Lambert, former U.S. Navy SEAL team member and host of the DISCOVERY channel's "LONE TARGET" program . In LONE TARGET, Lambert travels around the world and challenges elite military, police, and border security units to pursue and apprehend him as he travels cross-country. He uses his skills and training to evade them, and, with a little luck, will successfully reach an extraction point. Traveling light, he uses only a minimal amount of carefully selected gear to accomplish his task. 

 Joel Lambert
[joellambert.com]
 
I greatly enjoy the show and Joel's cagey humor. My favorite episode thus far was one in which he caught a stray dog and tied his sweaty bandanna to it's collar, and then loosed it to run wild and draw off the pursuing tracking team's dog, which were hot on his trail. The search dog took the bait and boy, were those guys PISSED when they caught onto the ruse! BTW Joel has his own official web page with lots of useful personal safety tips. You can visit it at Joel Lambert.com

About a month ago, Joel shared a gear drawing from a new outdoor equipment company named  KILIMANJARO GEAR [or "KILIGEAR" for short].

Kilimanjaro Gear logo
[Kilimanjarogear.com]

I visited their FACEBOOK page and saw that they were seeking outdoors men to field test their gear. I then went to their website and was pretty impressed by what I saw, and so I posted an offer to test their gear on their FB page. I was pleasantly surprised when Mr. Andy Somerville, KILIGEAR's Director of Marketing, contacted me and advised me they had selected me to help test their gear. Mr. Somerville very kindly invited me to select a couple of items from their product line for evaluation.

I studied the KILIGEAR web site's product line with a mind to what kind of test would I want to conduct. A few months ago I went on a minimal gear outing in which a gentleman named Jesse came along and carried all of his kit for the event in a deployment bag, which is visible in the photograph below:

Jesse's Deployment Bag kit
 
I'd been very impressed that Jesse had carried a stove, cook set, food, tarp and blanket, cordage and more in just a single shoulder bag. Ever since that outing I'd been thinking of acquiring a deployment bag and had been looking at various models online and at my favorite go-to trail & military gear store  S.L.O. Camp n' Pack Army Navy Outdoor Store [S.L.O. Camp n' Pack is 100% Veteran owned and operated, offers quality brands, and they operate an online sales business as well which you can visit at CNP Tactical.com]. After some consideration, I selected the KILIGEAR  3-way Modular Deployment Bag #910103 and their  BALLAST (tm) Multi-Tool .

I'll be describing the features of both products in this blog, and then in the coming weeks I'll actually take them afield and use them on an outing involving at least 1 night outdoors [I'd prefer to do 2 nights, but my current job's work schedule doesn't allow me 2 days off at the present time].  

I received both KILIGEAR items in the mail a few days ago, and I'll begin with the Deployment Bag:

KILIGEAR 3-way Modular Deployment Bag

I requested their tan colored Deployment bag. The bag is nicely compact, has heavy-duty zipper closures, and measures about 17" in Length x 8" Height x 7" Depth. It is constructed from tough, 600 denier polyester fabric. The bag can be configured for shoulder carry using the included removable padded shoulder strap, or mounted on a belt, such as a USGI pistol belt for use as a fanny pack.

Front of Deployment Bag
 
 
Back of Deployment bag

The bag has PALS webbing and straps on the back so it can be attached with MOLLE compatible gear [or you can use old school ALICE gear "meat hooks"]. It also has a heavy duty handle sewn onto the top of the bag and could be carried in that fashion. The deployment bag has three drain holes into the bottom should it become immersed. I like that there is not just one hole and they are spaced evenly to quickly drain the bag. All of the stitching on this bag is solid bar stitching.

Interior of main compartment

There are 4 compartments to this bag. Inside the main compartment is a lightweight mesh divider. It's pretty roomy for larger items. A smaller compartment is located on the front of the bag and it has a solid divider sewn in the center with 2 pockets sewn onto the divider. Finally there are two small compartments at either end. The front and side pockets have PALS webbing so you can lash gear on or add additional MOLLE pouches to fit your needs.

Front compartment interior
 
The side pockets [open in above photo] are *almost* large enough to hold a USGI quart canteen, but wouldn't zip closed when I placed a canteen inside. I would've liked these compartments just a bit larger to hold a canteen and canteen cup for light treks, but it's no big deal because I can just attach one to the PALS webbing with ALICE clips and still have those compartments for other gear [or just choose a smaller water bottle for those outings]. Overall I think it is a solid bag and should stand up very well to rugged use.   

So maybe you're an urbanite and never go out on the trails to hike and camp and thinking, "I don't need this." Well, the urban landscape is just a different kind of wilderness to navigate and survive in every day. Deployment bags are, to my mind, a modern evolution of the old "Possibles' Bag" of the Mountain Man of yesteryear. The Possibles bag was used to carry small items that might possibly be needed throughout the course of a day. Ever been to a Barbecue and found no one remembered matches [more common as less people smoke these days]? Been without parking meter coins? Been on a tight schedule and wished for a snack bar? Have you ever needed a little flashlight to see the lock on your front door when coming home late at night? Needed to clean up a scratch and had no band aids or alcohol wipes? No, quite obviously there's a need for a modern "Possibles Bag" in the course of our busy daily lives, and a deployment bag can answer those tasks admirably.

EDC gear can be uncomfortable in pockets,
Making a tactical bag very practical
 
Shoulder bags not manly? eh, maybe it used to be that there was a stigma against men carrying a shoulder bag, but I think we've grown beyond such nonsense and everywhere you go these days, you see folks carrying computer bags or bike messenger sling bags around town. Actually when I see someone with one it piques my interest and I wonder if it's a Bug Out Bag or just a savvy commuter. In fact one avid outdoors man I know, Tactical Bushcrafter, carries his gear bag on his daily commutes to and from work, just in case his vehicle becomes disabled and he has to hike home. 

Interesting to me is that these bags are "NTOA member tested and recommended 2014". NTOA is the NATIONAL TACTICAL OFFICERS ASSOCIATION, a professional organization for SWAT trained peace officers. I retired in 2012 after a 34 year career as a police officer, the last 12 of which I served as a Patrol Sergeant/shift supervisor. I was also a firearms instructor, & training manager, and had received training from NTOA, including Active Shooter Response Training. NTOA is a serious and eminently professional organization, so I am quite certain the NTOA would not hang their name nor reputation on just anyone's gear. It says a LOT that their members approve and recommend KILIMANJARO GEAR.

I also know many peace officers and lawfully armed citizens that use tactical shoulder bags to carry their gear on their daily commutes. Believe me, this makes a lot of sense. While your firearm should be worn concealed on your person, it is extremely uncomfortable and noisy to carry spare magazines or speed loaders, handcuffs, O.C. spray, and the other tools of the job in your pockets. A small tactical bag makes excellent sense.

Next up is the BALLAST (tm) multi-tool. This came nicely packaged in an attractive clam pack: 

BALLAST(tm) multi-tool

 
Reverse side showing sheath
 
This multi-tool really caught my eye when I perused KILIGEAR's catalog. It is a very heavy-duty, stainless steel multi-tool, made in China, and weighing in at about 9.5 ounces. It feels very solid in the hand, unlike some *cheap* multi-tools that are sold on the market. Open length is about 6" and closed roughly 4".  It has 13 tools:

- Pliers.
- Long Nose Pliers.
- Wire Cutters.
- Knife blade [Sheepsfoot or Scramasax style blade about 2", very sharp].
- Serrated knife blade [about 1-3/4" ].
- Wood Saw [1-3/4"].
- Double Cut File.
- Single Cut File.
- Phillips Screwdriver.
- Large Slotted Screwdriver.
- Medium Slotted Screwdriver.
- Can Opener.
- Bottle Cap Lifter.
 
"BALLAST" 13-in-1, Multi-Tools deployed

I opted for the black "tactical" finish. The finish is very nice and even. I can't say for sure whether it's anodized or a baked-on epoxy. The plier head appears to be a casting and has some tool marks visible, but nothing severe; it's just the price of doing business that in order to deliver an affordable product to the consumer a lot of time cannot be spent on polishing out tool marks. Heavy duty steel springs are provided for each tool, and are held together by three rivets on each side, as well as the hex nuts securing the Plier head to the handle assembly; basically it's built like the proverbial "Russian tank". 

BALLAST is a solidly built multi-tool

As delivered the multi-tool was very tight, but my experience is that with time and use they loosen, sometimes too much and thus become difficult to use because they want to close on you. At <2" the saw blade is probably relegated to small chores like notching a hearth board or making tent pegs, but that's okay. I like the sax shaped knife blade; for carving and drilling it should be just fine. Surprisingly the can opener blade has an edge I could feel on my finger. I'm not sure about the single cut file, but I will try it at sharpening my pruning tools at work, which is what I use the file on my other multi-tool to do.
 
One thing I disliked about this tool was the lack of a lanyard loop hole or stud. I believe in attaching a retention tether with about 3' of paracord to your multi-tool. I usually make a loop and attach the other end to my belt via a carabiner. In this way if you drop it, it cannot become lost or disappear down a ravine; you just reel it back in. I now work for a County Parks Department and often do trail maintenance and other projects and it's common to drop my tool wrestling branches and vines [For the same reason, when I was in law enforcement I used a tactical retention lanyard on my issue P229-R, because there's a high incidence of primary gun hand wounds in fights and I wanted to make sure if I dropped it it would follow me as I retreated to cover or started reeling it in with my support hand].  

The sheath is a snap closure belt pouch made of a Cordura like nylon. The pouch is formed with a plastic or nylon rigid liner. When you pop the flap it stays open, which is nice for re-holstering ease. One thing I did not like is the belt loop which is made using a flimsy piece of nylon webbing. It seems sloppy and should be made using a stiffer/heavier webbing. I suspect that this loop will probably stretch and wear pretty fast. Otherwise I like this sheath's construction a lot [A Tip: Using a carabiner through a knife sheath loop allows it to function as a dangler and you can remove the sheath without having to unfasten your pants belt. It also drops the sheath a couple inches below your T-shirt, so you don't have to lift it to access the knife or multi-tool].

Some folks might deride the BALLAST's "MADE IN CHINA" construction, but heck, every manufacturer has products from China in their line these days. Listen; my day-to-day Multi-Tool is a LEATHERMAN "SUPER TOOL 200", USA made and I've used it hard for several years and it has loosened up very badly and I have to keep a rubber band around it to keep it from clicking and clacking. The saw blade is bent and the wire cutters are mangled. Higher quality? Yeah, but you buy what you can afford and remember that nothing lasts forever. The suggested retail on this BALLAST Multi-Tool is about the same as Gerber Gear's "SUSPENSION" Multi-Tool which I believe is also made in China, and in my opinion, the KILIGEAR offering might just be a little better quality. 

In conclusion, my initial impression of these products is that they are appropriate quality for their suggested retail price point. Of the 2, I rank the bag a better quality product than the knife. I am looking forward to the field test and assessing them in actual conditions, especially the multi-tool. I won't abuse it, but it's going to get worked, so stay tuned.

Stay Safe & Happy Hiking!

WOODS DEVIL/GOBLIN RANGER

Tuesday, December 16, 2014

Shooting Colt's patent 1851 Navy revolver

One of my interests is shooting firearms, especially reproductions of historic black powder firearms. One of my favorites is my reproduction Colt's 1851 .36 caliber Navy revolver.

1851 Navy revolver
 
I bought it new from Cabelas several years ago and have shot it steadily over the years. I have used it to place at several black powder competitions and have even won a few ribbons with it. I believe that these revolvers have usefulness for Cowboy Action Shooting [CAS], target marksmanship, and could even be used successfully for small game hunting.

There is a mistaken belief that these firearms are inaccurate and I have found that in fact they are surprisingly accurate. These revolver's sights were originally regulated for about sixty yards, and at a distance of twenty-five yards I have found it necessary to aim about six inches low to place my shots in the black on a standard 25 yard bulls-eye pistol target.

Group shot at 7 yards
 
The sights are composed of a brass cone front sight and rear-sight notch cut into the hammer nose. They are not the best but seem adequate when I do my part. At twenty-five yards I can keep all six shots in the black; about an eight-inch circle, which is generally accepted as "combat accuracy". At fifty yards my groups spread out to about twelve inches, but still stay within the scoring rings.
 
Group shot at 20 yards distance
 
A little history on the Navy is in order. The predecessor of the Navy revolver, the "Walker" .45 caliber revolver, came about following the 1846 Mexican War. It was a powerful handgun, but heavy at 4-pounds,  9 ounces. The combat success of the "Walker" revolver led to public and military demand for a lighter, handier sidearm. Samuel Colt seized the opportunity and began production of a whole series of .44 caliber "Dragoon" or "Holster" revolvers, still quite heavy and usually carried in pommel holsters on a saddle. However it was not until 1851 that Colonel Colt designed a pistol that would finally meet the public requirements... the `51 Navy...which truly was the first practical "belt revolver", meaning it could be carried comfortably on the waist.
 
Between 1851 and 1873, somewhere around 325,000 Navy's were built. It was so popular that when it was discontinued, the grip frame was transferred into the newly designed Colt's Single Action Army cartridge revolver; The famed "Peacemaker". Even after it's technology was obsolete, people carried the Navy, which could be purchased used for around $2.00 and a pack of 6 paper cartridges for .75 cents...much cheaper than the Peacemaker's month's pay $25.00 price tag [equivalent today at about $479.00].
 
The graceful 7-1/2" octagonal barrel, coupled with the traditional Colt "plowshare" grip make for wonderful handling characteristics. It is very easy to see how a shootist like Wild Bill Hickok, who always carried a brace of Navy revolvers, was able to accomplish some of his shooting feats once you have fired a Colt's Navy. One of his demonstrations was to stand midway between 2 telegraph poles. Hickock drew, fired at one, spun and fired his other revolver ambidextrously, striking both poles.
 
Besides Hickock, the Colt Navy was the go-to handgun for Outlaws, Lawmen, and both sides during the War between the States. Colt set up a factory in London and produced a steel-framed Navy which was authorized by the British Army for individual purchase by Officers. Explorers Captain Sir Richard Burton and John Hanning Speke carried and used Colt's Navy revolvers on their African expeditions.

London Navy revolvers also saw combat in various British conflicts, including the Crimea and the 1857 Indian Sepoy Mutiny. However, the Navy's small bullet lacked needed stopping power for dealing with fanatical tribal warriors. Plus the British soldiers were often faced with overwhelming numbers of tribal peoples at close range and quickly decided they needed double-action revolvers for close quarters battle.  But, for the most part, the Colt's Navy was an adequately effective and accurate combat arm.
 
Combat target shot at 7 yards
 
The loading process is laborious: pouring a measure of 20 grains of FFFg black powder into each chamber, then seating a lubed felt wad and lead round ball over the chamber mouths. The ball is seated using the loading lever located beneath the barrel. Finally, a percussion cap is fitted to the cone at the rear of each chamber. The process takes about 3-5 minutes to complete.

Percussion caps, live and spent
 
One thing the shooter must be careful of is the spent brass percussion caps. Once fired they shatter and become very jagged and sharp and can cut your fingers if you try to remove them from the cones at the rear of the cylinder bare-handed. A stick should be used to remove and to seat them as well, as they can detonate when being pressed onto the cones.
 
Spent percussion caps
 
Another problem caused by percussion caps is jams caused by pieces of spent caps falling inside the revolvers action. The action is completely open at the rear of the cylinder and prone to this. There is some indication that shootists of the day would swing the revolver backwards while cocking it to allow the spent fragments to fall clear of the action, then bring the firearm back down onto target. This odd cocking practice is sometimes seen in old time cowboy movies in which they may have been emulating this practice.
 
Spent caps on cone;open action
 
Cleaning the black powder revolver was essential to ensuring performance. Black powder is hygroscopic, meaning it tends to draw moisture from the air, and burn less efficiently. Hickock was known to discharge his Navy's and reload them daily to ensure reliability...his life depended on it! They can easily be cleaned by disassembling them, washing in soapy water, then drying and lubricating them with a natural grease or lube. Petroleum-based lubricants react chemically with black powder and produce a thick, tarry fouling and must be avoided.
 
It was common in the Old West for Frontiersman to spread their revolver components on a rock, rinse them with the remnants of the leftover morning's coffee. A piece of twine with 2 rags, one lubed, one dry, were used as a pull-through and drawn through the barrel to finish the job. Typically, I use either Thompson Center "Bore Butter" or just everyday shortening to lube my pistol after cleaning.   
 
I'll conclude by saying that, in spite of the effort required to load and fire them, if you get the chance to do so, try shooting a black powder Navy revolver. They are fun and nostalgic to shoot and you will thoroughly enjoy the experience!
 
 
GOBLIN RANGER / BUSHCRAFT WOODS DEVIL
 
 

Sunday, November 30, 2014

The "Fire Roll"

At one time or another, you may have seen a "Tool Roll". These are usually a multi-pocket bag constructed of leather or fabric. They are designed to hold a tool in each pocket, and can be rolled up and then fastened with ties attached to the outside of the roll. I usually see them equipped with expensive tools, like fine woodworking tools. A tool roll is good means of keeping a set or tools together so they do not become separated and possibly lost.

Periodically, I go to a public range to practice my marksmanship skills. While there I like to dig through the trash cans and look for anything I can use. One frequent discard I find are military ammunition bandoleers. They are fabric or vinyl construction, have multiple pockets and a shoulder strap. Sometimes the compartments have a button or snap closure, others a simple tuck-in flap. They were used to carry cartridges on metal stripper clips for reloading magazines. Most shooters usually just discard them after the cartridges have been depleted.

Military Bandoleers
 
Gear has a way of "migrating" and becoming lost in a day pack or bug-out bag, especially when you need it the most. So, sometime back I decided that a bandoleer would make a good way to assemble my fire-making components into one neat package. I like to carry multiple means of making fire, because the truth is that not everything works all the time under all conditions; lighters and matches can become wet and fail. You may not be able to find a way to shelter matches from strong gusts, so a torch lighter may be in order. This is another reason for a "Fire Roll"...it is a kit for keeping similar "valuable tools" together.
 
Be advised, quality varies widely in surplus bandoleers. Some have 4 compartments, some 5, and still others 6 compartments. I have collected are Turkish military 1950's construction intended for their 8mm Mauser battle rifle of that period and are constructed from a very gauze-like cotton fabric with a zinc button for closure.  The best I have found is a water resistant, high-quality nylon construction with snap closures and a weep-hole in the bottom of each compartment marked POOLE 1992. I have no idea what country made it.
 
My own "Fire Roll" is set up as follows [Photograph below, Left to Right]: Roll of Jute cordage for tinder nest making, Tin with Vaseline-soaked cotton balls; Ferro rod/striker; Common wooden matches, Wind/waterproof "Storm Matches", Lighter; COGHLAN'S Tinder stick, Candle, Fatwood stick wrapped with Jute cordage. 
 
'Fire Roll" contents
 
Ideally, the ties would be centered on the outside of the roll so it could be tied closed, but being a Bandoleer, they're sewn to the ends as shoulder straps to permit carry. I like the idea I could throw the bag over my shoulder , so I left them attached in that manner. You could cut and re-locate the straps if you wished, but it's a simple enough matter to just wrap the strap around the roll and then knot it closed, as shown below:
 
"Fire Roll" rolled up and tied
 
Besides firing range trash cans, I've seen these bandoleers at garage sales and surplus stores. I used to see scads of them in wastecans at a military base firing range where I used to take training, apparently discarded by soldiers after small arms training. I suppose if you knew someone in the Army National Guard they could possibly scrounge one from the trash for you.
 
And, a final bit of advice as I close this post... I would highly recommend that you always carry some means of fire-making in your pockets, upon your person, in addition to a Fire Roll in your pack.. Redundant systems ["Two is One, and One is None"] is critical to survival. If you become separated from your pack you will still have some means of making a fire upon your person. To this end, a DOAN's magnesium bar is a pretty safe bet, as it will always work, even in wet conditions, and has a ferrocerium rod incorporated into it which can be used to light natural or other synthetic tinders if desired.
 
Happy Hiking!

GOBLIN RANGER / BUSHCRAFT WOODS DEVIL